Trouble Shooting Guides
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Mark
220 Alarm Trouble
Shooting Guide
Check the lights on the front of the alarm. They will tell you a lot about the problem. When the unit is on and working correctly the following lights should be on:
STATUS OK
ARMED
AC POWER
1) If The Low
Power Light is On:
Check the bottom two screws of the terminal block labeled T5 (they should be in the right hand bottom corner of the board). Check the two screws with a voltmeter on **AC VOLTS**. It should read 24VAC-28VAC. If the voltage is not correct:
a) The breaker that supplies the transformer may be tripped.
b) If the voltage is only 14VAC the input to the transformer is probably connected to 120VAC, this should be 240VAC.
c) The transformer may be bad. If it is cold it is probably bad. The transformer should be warm to the touch when working properly.
If the AC Voltage is correct on the board and the low power light is on and the alarm is tripped, there is probably a problem with the board or the battery may be low.
2) If the NO (Normally Open) Loop Status Light Is On:
Check the device that is connected to the NO loop of the alarm (this may be a Thermalarm / TherMinder, Water Pressure Sensor, Static Pressure Sensor, or many other NO devices). The NO loop of the alarm is the top two screws of terminal T1. If the NO device is not tripped, remove the wires from the NO loop on the alarm board. Press reset. If the unit resets, the problem is probably the NO device or the wire going to it. If the unit does not reset, the problem is in the alarm board.
3) If the NC (Normally Closed) Loop Status Light is On:
Check the device that is connected to the NC loop of the alarm (this may be a Thermalarm / TherMinder, Water Pressure Sensor, Static Pressure Sensor, or many other NC devices). The NC loop of the alarm is the bottom two screws of terminal T1. If the NC device is not tripped, remove the wires from the NC loop and put a small piece of wire from one screw to the other on the alarm board. Press reset. If the unit resets, the problem is probably the NC device or the wire going to it. Make sure if you do not use NC loop that the jumper remains between the 2 screws. If the unit does not reset, the problem is in the alarm board.
If any of the above problems are in the unit, an easy fix is to remove the cotter pins and send the door to us for repair.
4)
4) To Check the Battery:
Disconnect the AC power from the unit. The Low
Power light should come on and the siren should sound in 30 seconds. If the
siren blows at its normal level, the battery should be OK. If the unit goes dead
or the siren is very weak, the battery needs to be replaced.
5)
To Check the Siren:
If the alarm seems to be working correctly but the siren will not sound, test the siren. Make sure the battery is good with STEP 4 above. Disconnect the wire from Yelp and Gnd on T3. Connect the wire that was on Gnd to the or black terminal of the battery. Connect the wire that was on Yelp to the + or red terminal of the battery. If the Siren sounds it is good. If the siren fails to sound, then the siren or the wire is bad. To decide whether the problem is the wire or the siren, connect the siren directly to the battery. If the siren sounds, the problem is the wire and if it does not sound, the problem is the siren.
Z 24
or Z 28 Alarm Trouble
Shooting Guide
Check the lights on the front of the alarm. They will tell you a lot about the problem. When the unit is on and working correctly the lights should be as follows:
Zone Lights- Blinking
Low Battery-Off
AC/Battery- Solid
1) If a Zone or Zone Lights are Solid the Zone is tripped:
Normally Open Devices: Check to make sure the device that is connected to the zone is not tripped. Any of the following can be your Normally Open Device: A Thermalarm / TherMinder, Water Pressure Sensor, Static Pressure Sensor, or many other NO devices). When using NO leave the jumper between the zone screws. Make sure you have one wire from the device to the top screw of the zone and the other wire of the device connected to the black wire labeled COMMON. If the NO device is not tripped, remove the wire from the top screw of the zone on the Alarm Board. Press reset. If the unit resets, the problem is probably the NO device or the wire going to it. If the unit does not reset, the problem is in the Alarm Board.
Normally Closed Devices: Check to make sure the device that is connected to the zone is not tripped. Any of the following can be your Normally Closed Device: A Thermalarm /TherMinder, Water Pressure Sensor, Static Pressure Sensor, or many other NC devices). Make sure the jumper connecting the zone screws together is removed and you have one wire from your device to the top screw of the zone and one wire to the bottom screw of the zone. If the NC device is not tripped, remove the wires from the NC loop and put a small piece of wire from one screw to the other on the Alarm Board. Press reset. If the unit resets, the problem is probably the NC device or the wire going to it. If the unit does not reset, the problem is in the Alarm Board.
If any of the above problems are in the unit, an easy fix is to remove the cotter pins and send the door to us for repair.
4) 2) To Check the Battery:
Disconnect the AC power from the unit and push the
test button. The siren should sound instantly. If the
siren blows at its normal level, the battery should be OK. If the unit goes dead
or the siren is very weak, the battery needs to be replaced.
3)
To Check the Siren:
If the alarm seems to be working correctly but the Siren will not sound, test the siren. Make sure the battery is good with STEP 4 above. Disconnect the wire from Yelp and Gnd. Connect the wire that was on Gnd to the or black terminal of the battery. Connect the wire that was on Yelp to the + or red terminal of the battery. If the Siren sounds it is good. If the siren fails to sound, then the siren, speaker or driver or the wire is bad. To decide whether the problem is the wire or the siren, connect the siren directly to the battery. If you have a driver board make sure you connect the wires from the driver to the battery. If the siren sounds, the problem is the wire and if it does not sound, the problem is the siren.
Z28D Alarm Trouble
Shooting Guide
The display on the front door shows you the status of the alarm. When all eight zones are armed and working correctly the display will switch between two screens:.
Z-28D
Status OK
Armed Zones
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
When there is a problem with a zone for example zones 1,2,6 are tripped the display will show:
********ALARM*******
1 2 0 0 0 6 0 0
1) If a Zone is tripped:
Normally Open Devices: Check to make sure the device that is connected to the zone is not tripped. Any of the following can be a Normally Open Device: A Thermalarm / TherMinder, Water Pressure Sensor, Static Pressure Sensor, or many other NO devices. Make sure the selector switch on the board is moved to the right for each zone that is wired NO. Make sure you have one wire from the device to the top screw of the zone and the other wire of the device connected to the black wire labeled COMMON. If the NO device is not tripped, remove the wire from the top screw of the zone on the Alarm Board. Press reset. If the unit resets, the problem is probably the NO device or the wire going to it. If the unit does not reset, the problem is in the alarm board.
Normally Closed Devices: Check to make sure the device that is connected to the zone is not tripped. Any of the following can be a Normally Closed Device: A Thermalarm/ TherMinder, Water Pressure Sensor, Static Pressure Sensor, or many other NC devices. Make sure the selector switch on the board is moved to the left for each zone that is wired NC. The device should have one wire going to the top screw of the zone and one wire to the bottom screw of the zone. If the NC device is not tripped, remove the wires from the NC loop and move the selector switch to the right for a NO device. Press reset. If the unit resets, the problem is probably the NC device or the wire going to it. If the unit does not reset, the problem is in the alarm board.
If any of the above problems are in the unit, an easy fix is to remove the cotter pins and send the door to us for repair.
4) 2) To Check the Battery:
Disconnect the AC power from the unit and push the
test button. The siren should sound instantly. If the
siren blows at its normal level, the battery should be OK. If the unit goes dead
or the siren is very weak, the battery needs to be replaced.
3)
To Check the Siren:
If the alarm seems to be working correctly but the siren will not sound, test the siren. Make sure the battery is good with STEP 2 above. Disconnect the wire from Yelp and Gnd. Connect the wire that was on Gnd to the or black terminal of the battery and connect the wire that was on Yelp to the + or red terminal of the battery. If the siren sounds it is good. If the siren fails to sound, then the siren, speaker, driver or the wire is bad. To decide whether the problem is the wire or the siren, connect the siren directly to the battery. If you have a driver board make sure you connect the wires from the driver to the battery. If the siren sounds, the problem is the wire and if it does not sound, the problem is the siren.
CM
2000 Trouble Shooting Guide
1)
Check the
24 Volt Transformer. This supplies power to the Curtain-Minder.
a) The breaker that supplies
the transformer may be tripped.
b) The back-up thermostat may be tripped, cutting the
24VAC to the unit.
c)
If the voltage is only 14VAC the Input to the transformer is probably
connected to 120VAC, this should be 240VAC.
d) The transformer may be bad. If it is cold it is probably bad, it should be warm to the touch when working properly.
2)
Terminals
2 and 4 are the output terminals that go to the magnets.
Check this Voltage with a voltmeter on DC volts.
a)
1
magnet = 6 Volts DC
b)
2
magnets = 12 Volts DC
c)
3
magnets = 18 Volts DC
d)
4
magnets = 24 Volts DC
3)
If the
Yellow Fault Light is on, then the winch kits are wired incorrectly.
a)
Refer
to the instruction manual for complete wiring diagrams.
4)
If the 24
Volt AC supply is correct and the output voltage is incorrect, the unit is
defective. It should be sent back to Pro-Tech, Inc.
for repairs.
How To Replace a CM 2000 With a CM 5000
1) Connect the white lamp cord of the CM 5000 to the 24 volt AC transformer.
a) The white lamp cord on the CM 5000 should connect to the same place that terminals 5 and 6 were connected to on the CM 2000.
b) The white lamp cord should connect the terminals labeled 24 VAC on the CM 5000 to the transformer.
2) The red and black wires at the bottom of the CM 5000 should be connected to the red and black terminals on the battery.
a) Be sure to put the red wire on the red terminal.
b) Be sure to put the black wire on the black terminal.
c) Place the battery inside the enclosure over the BATTERY label.
3) The Electro-Holds ( winch kits ) should be connected in series with the out + terminals on the CM 5000.
a) The + output of the CM 5000 is the same as screw 2 on the CM 2000.
b) The output of the CM 5000 is the same as screw 4 on the CM 2000.
4) Operate the CM 5000 as follows:
a) Press the reset button. The AC and the Status lights should be on.
b) If the OW or the PW light is on there is a wiring problem. If the OW light is on there is a broken wire in the series. If the PW light is on the winches are wired in parallel which will not give the winches enough power.
c) Set the knob to the desired amount of time for the CM 5000 to drop the curtains after a power failure. This can be set from zero to ten minutes.
5) You should always test the unit to see if the unit is working properly.
a) To test the unit, turn the breaker that supplies power to the transformer off.
b) The curtains should fall when the time has expired.
c) Make sure you turn the power back on and hook up the curtains.
CM
5000
Trouble Shooting Guide
1)
Check AC Transformer. Terminals labeled 24VAC should read 24 28 volts
AC. **MAKE SURE YOUR METER IS ON AC VOLTS**. If the transformer voltage at the
24VAC terminals is not 24-28 volts AC one of the following is your problem:
a)
The breaker that supplies the transformer may be tripped.
b)
The back-up thermostat may be tripped, cutting the 24VAC to the unit.
c)
If the voltage is only 14VAC the Input to the transformer is probably
connected to 120VAC, this should be 240VAC.
d)
The transformer may be bad. If it is cold it is probably bad, it should
be warm to the touch when working properly.
2) Check the output of the CM 5000. Terminals labeled + and should read 6 volts DC per magnet. *** MAKE SURE YOUR METER IS ON DC VOLTS ***. If the CM 5000 is set to the strong position, it would have 9 volts DC per magnet.
a) 1 Magnet = 6 Volts DC
b) 2 Magnets = 12 Volts DC
c) 3 Magnets = 18 Volts DC
d) 4 Magnets = 24 Volts DC
e) If your meter reads 30-35 volts DC, this could indicate that you have a broken wire.
3) If the OW light is on, this will indicate that the series connected magnets are not making a complete loop. In other words, you probably have a broken wire.
4) If the PW light is on, this will indicate that the magnets are wired in parallel not series. This will cause the magnets to be very weak. The curtains may fall for no reason.
5) If the correct voltage is not on the + and terminals, remove the wires on the + and terminals. Put your meter on Ohms and measure the resistance of the series magnets. The meter should read 72-75 ohms per magnet.
a) 1 Magnet = 72 75 Ohms
b) 2 Magnets = 144 150 Ohms
c) 3 Magnets = 216 225 Ohms
d) 4 Magnets = 288 300 Ohms
e) If the resistance is half the correct value, this could indicate that the magnets are wired in parallel.
f) If the resistance is very high, this could indicate a broken wire or bad magnet.
DIMMERS
1) No Light Output:
a) Power not connected or the circuit breaker is tripped
b) Timer switch "off", contacts bad, not closing
c) Brightness control fully Counter-clockwise
d) Load Circuits not connected-"Open Circuit"
e) Dimmer miswired-See Wiring Diagrams
f) Lightning has damaged the unit
2) Lights on at Full Brightness:
a) Brightness control set fully Clockwise
b) Triacs shorted
c) Dimmer miswired
d) Lightning has damaged the unit
e) Full-On Switch Turned On
3) No Control on One-Half of the Lights:
a) Triac Shorted- The Side that is cold will be shorted
4) Will Not Adjust Correctly
a) 0-10 Volt Shunt in Place
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